One of the things I love most about Paris is the way it’s constantly changing. For a city so steeped in history – where every corner throws up an 18th century house or a 16th century fountain – it is surprisingly modern. A huge part of that is due to its cultural diversity and the huge number of immigrants that have left their mark on the city. Few have had so palpable an impact as the 100,000 strong Jewish community who, starting from today are celebrating Hannukah. And what better place to celebrate the Festival of Lights than in the City of Light?

Also known as Chanukah, the Festival of Lights is one of the major annual celebrations in the Jewish calendar. The eight day, seven night event commemorates the rededication of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem, won back after a long civil war with a ruler dead set on keeping the temple shut to Jews. When they finally won the Holy Temple back and set to work rebuilding it, the Rabbis went to light the lamp – custom says that there must always be a candle or lamp burning in the temple – but they only had enough oil for one day. As the story goes, the lamp remained lit for seven nights and eight days on only that little dribble of oil. And so it became law that every year the miracle would be celebrated over seven nights and eight days.

Hanukkah in La Marais

Hanukkah festivities today are mostly about the lighting of candles. Central to this is the menorah, a special nine-branch candelabrum. One light, called the shamash is slightly raised above the others. This is the general purpose light that can be used for day-to-day uses and the lighting of other flames, the other eight lights cannot be used for this. Every day the shamash plus one extra light are lit so on the first day there are two candles burning, on the second three, on the third four and on and on until the eighth day when all nine lights of the menorah (usually candles or oil lamps) are lit.

As usual the lighting of the menorah will form the bulk of public celebrations of Hanukkah in Paris. Last year there was a big menorah erected in front of the Eiffel Tower and on the first day of Chanukah there was a big celebration around it’s lighting, including a small free concert. There is also usually a celebration in Place de la Republique. Since the 4th arrondissement, the Marais, is the Jewish Quarter in Paris, this is where Hanukkah celebrations will be most prominent.

Besides from the lighting of candles celebrations usually include eating traditional foods fried in olive oil – like potato latkes and filled donuts – gambling with wooden spinning tops called dreidels, and giving monetary gifts to children. It’s a family event as much as a religious one so people will be taking the time to spend with their loved ones. Head down to the 4th and pick up some traditional pastries in the bakeries, hang around to watch the lighting of the menorah around sunset and then strike off through winding residential streets, seeing how many candles you can see shining in the windows. The chief purpose of the menorah is to spread the message so most families display their lights in prominent places, visible to all who pass by.

Latkes are a traditional Jewish food

Besides from Saturday (Christmas Eve this year) and the last day of Hanukkah (Dec. 28th) the festival is not actually a Sabbath, making the Marais a fantastic place to stay over Christmas. Where much of the rest of the city will be closed from December 24th through to the New Year in some places, it’s business as usual among Jewish business owners so you’ll still be able to find dinner, pop into the shop and eavesdrop on a bit of banter down here. And since it is all about spreading the message, visitors are more than welcome to drop along and part-take in the festivities. Just bring a pocketful of chocolate coins, your friendliest smile and an open mind!