European travel at Christmas time is so under-rated. Everyone is all about spring and summer. They say it’s all about picnics in the park and wine on the terraces but that’s where they’re wrong. Winter travel in Paris has a whole other set of charms that somehow fly under the radar, a rarity in a city so famous you may say. If you did you’d be right. Christmas in Paris is a rare opportunity to see the city without being held up by tour groups on every corner. A rare time of year when locals outnumber visitors. Paris at Christmas may not be warm, it may not always be dry, but it sure is a lot more authentic. Christmas is when the City of Lights shines.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – you’ll experience the best of Christmas in Paris (or any other time of year for that matter) just walking around. Make for the Champs-Élysées to see the Christmas lights, this year designed around the theme of rings. The street is lined with 175 chalets set up for the festive season selling Christmas treats, crafts and pretty gifts. Stop along the way to check out window displays in designer stores, usually more art than promotion. Make sure to make a trip to Boulevard Haussman to see the displays there too. Printemps and Galeries Lafayette go all out with theirs, the latter having been opened by Karl Lagerfeld on behalf of Chanel. The little ones will love these scenes created from dolls depicting rock scenes, airlines and ballets with distinctively Parisian backdrops. And little steps have been installed beside the windows so they don’t have to strain their tippy toes to see in.

Peep through the windows at Galeries Lafayette

Other spots with great Christmas lights include lively pedestrian streets Rue Montorgueil and Rue Moffetard. Perhaps a highlight of any trip too is a trip on the huge ferris wheel on Place de la Concorde, known locally as La Grande Roue. Climbing to such a towering height over the perfect location you’ll be hard pressed to find a better Christmas view. Wait until night time, wrap up warm and discover for yourself how it was that Paris got the name City of Lights.

Chances are the Eiffel Tower is on your wish list if this is your first trip to Paris and you’re in luck. During the festive season your ticket includes admission to an ice rink on the first floor. It’s small but you can’t beat the location. For bigger ice rinks pop along to Hôtel de Ville which has two – one for adults and one for kids – with very reasonable skate rental prices, or to the rink at La Defense.

Sometimes it even snows

Another great outdoor activity, and a highlight of the season for locals and visitors alike, are the many Christmas markets in Paris. There’s one in Trocadero near the Eiffel Tower and the ice rink with 120 stands, mostly featuring food, decorations and souvenirs. Place Saint-Germain-des-Pres is a favourite among the locals for its less hectic pace and its wider variety of products. Place Saint Sculpice is great for anyone travelling with kids because it also has a Santa’s Village (did you know the French Santa originally wore a hooded white cape? The red came later). For your Amelie moment pop by the Christmas market in Place des Abbesses in Montmartre or for grub go to the Tower of Montparnasse and explore the foodie market there which sells delicacies from all over the country. While you’re at Montparnasse be sure to take the elevator up to the top floor of the tower. It’s not much to look at from outside but according to many this is the best view of Paris because it is seen from the top floor of the city’s third tallest building, a view which crucially includes the Eiffel Tower. Pride of place among the Paris Christmas markets has to be reserved for the one in La Defense though. Situated under the Grand Arch, surrounded by skyscrapers and an almost other-worldly atmosphere, this market boasts no less than 350 stands. If you can’t find what you want here you might as well give up.

The kids will love a trip to Disneyland which goes all out at Christmas with ice skating, chalets selling festive gear and a special Christmas parade with Goofy as Santa and a whole heap of dancing elves. They’ll also enjoy the Carnival at Le Grand Palais.

Christmas market food

For any religious visitors, or even non-religious visitors who would like to see the cathedrals of Paris in their full glory, Christmas Eve mass is a must. Take refuge from the cold weather among a huge congregation and enjoy choirs, organ performance and candle-lit ceremonies. Midnight mass at the Sacre Coeur takes place on December 24th at 11PM with music provided by Benedictine nuns. At the same time there will be a ceremony in Notre Dame with a full choir and afterwards, at 11.55PM, the huge bell on top of the tower – Emmanuel – will chime. On Christmas Day there will be a Gregorian mass (with chants!) at 10AM, an organ concert at 4.30PM, vespers at 5.45PM and an evening mass at 6.30PM. All of these services will be packed to the rafters, especially the Christmas Eve ones, so be sure to show up early to get a seat. Even if you aren’t going to mass be sure to drop by Notre Dame. The city’s main Christmas tree goes up here and, although still a little busy, you can expect it to be a lot quieter than the summer months.

Perhaps the most important thing to remember if you’re planning a Christmas trip to Paris is to plan your food! Like most of the city’s museums, restaurants will largely be closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve so decide now (right now!) where you want to eat and make a reservation! Food genius Meg Zimbek did a great post on her collaboration blog Paris By Mouth, listing which restaurants open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, prices and her top picks. You can see that here. They range from the extortionate at €510 a head without wine to a place doing take-out pizza. Her top pick was Le Violin d’Ingres which is doing a traditional five course meal for €100. A traditional Christmas dinner in France is a lot different to what you might cook at home, with oysters, scallops, truffles, foie gras and beef or duck rather than turkey featuring on the menu. What you will recognise is the good old yule log that follows it up and the vin chaud, aka mulled wine.

See the tree at Notre Dame

For Christmas Day adventures in Paris you can count on the following being open among others: the Pompidou Centre, the Eiffel Tower, the famous cemeteries (a wonderfully quiet time to visit), Paris Opéra and the Moulin Rouge. A lot of shops along the Rue des Rosiers will also be open as this is the main thoroughfare in the Jewish quarter of la Marais. Although Hanukah falls over Christmas this year a lot of stores will still be open. Just remember – book dinner far in advance, check opening times and bring a jacket! With the right preparations, Christmas could well be your best ever visit to Paris.